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  #371  
Old 07-20-2017, 02:25 PM
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Yeah. Bummer for them, but at least the pictures aren't gone. They just decided they wanted to SPAM everybody who took advantage of their generosity.

FWIW I downloaded all the pictures and posted them elsewhere. Fixing the old links would be a real PITA and the dates are all jumbled in what I have so I also need to reorganize. Here's a link to the album on Flickr.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/150947981@N05/Ei53Ze
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  #372  
Old 08-14-2017, 11:09 PM
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Been awhile since you posted Kwak, I always check out your updates.

I stumbled across this video and thought of this thread, probably old hat to you but a great look at an iconic instrument

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  #373  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:37 PM
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Yeah, Willy bought old trigger in 1969 after a drunk stumbled into his previous guitar. He saved it and a pound a weed from a house fire.

On a related note, an icon at C.F. Martin & Co. up in Nazareth is set to retire. Dick Boak wore many hats there for 40 years but ironically he got the job after being discovered dumpster diving for wood scraps.

https://noisey.vice.com/en_us/articl...martin-guitars



Nowadays, Martin maintains a separate store front where they sell "rejected" parts and pieces in their original factory several blocks away in residential Nazareth, PA. During my visit last October instead of looking for the dumpster, I paid this "Guitar Makers Connection" a visit. I don't know if this store was Boak's idea but I'm thankful and have to say that the two women who run the store are very helpful indeed!
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  #374  
Old 09-27-2017, 02:39 PM
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I'm trying to get this project back in gear now that the wainscoting thing is nearing completion. Today I sat down at the dining room table (the kitchen table is still too rickety) and cut out little side braces for the body of the guitar:



I had to take the sides out of the mold (or 'mould' if you're using the Queen's English) in order to clamp the braces on but since they're in area that doesn't get much stress I was able to pull the clamps off. This is a little risky because there's really nothing but the properties of the rosewood too keep its shape and I wanted to try and test fit the neck. So I put it back in the mold and broke out my chisel in order to take off a little extra on the tenon on the neck and voila! it slipped in with slight resistance:



I didn't really have to do that at this point since the body should live in the mold so that I can get the top and back on, but once that's done it will have to live in its case in preparation of the annual drop in humidity once the heat kicks on:



So today after I stain the deck I'm going to flip the body over and make notches in the top of the kerfing lining so that my spruce soundboard locks in. Once that's done I'll nearly be ready to "close the box." The plan is to glue on the back first, which will make the assembly into something that luthiers call "the boat."
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  #375  
Old 10-31-2017, 01:43 PM
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Here's a little update on things:

1: I'm getting the sides ready to accept the top and back. That involves marking where the ends of the braces intersect with the sides and cutting grooves to "lock them together." Since the bracing for the upper bout is what they call an "A" Frame and I have an extension on the neck block to support the portion of the fretboard that extends over the body of the guitar I've had to get creative in order to mark where to cut grooves there. I ended up using charcoal to mark, then use a pull saw to cut on either side down to the desired depth before finally using a 1/4" chisel to rout away the material by hand - as opposed to just using power tools, which I have had a hard time controlling.





I made similar notches made in various places to admit the brace ends, using an exacto knife to notch on either side in similar fashion before doing the pull saw/chisel method. Most came out cleanly,





some did not:





In the end though, the overall fit is secure so that I can dry fit all the pieces and fit them in the case for storage:





Not a moment too soon. With the change of weather the furnace has kicked on and the RH will soon be plummeting. With the pieces in the case, I can keep them properly hydrated and monitor the levels:



BTW, the case is not a "snug" fit even though it appears to be in these photos. That's because there's about 3/4" of extra material that extends beyond the sides. Once everything is glued up I will be chiseling/routing away the excess. Don't worry about the notched for the ends of the braces showing through, though. After that I have to rout/chisel channels to glue decorative/protective body binding to cover/protect that area. THAT is a difficult process that has me nervous.
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  #376  
Old 11-19-2017, 12:38 AM
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always happy to see this Kwak. I was thinking about this project when I decided the best way to go for an electric bass was custom with parts I source myself. Starting with the neck as Ive found that it is not just sligthly cheaper but better quality. I picked up this rig last year for a mere $350. All original SWR before Fender bought them and phased them out. https://www.instagram.com/p/BEieU3Wl...miancrowleyart
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  #377  
Old 02-09-2018, 01:18 PM
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I have no progress to report other than to say I am looking forward to picking this back up in mid-April when spring weather comes and the heating season ends - unless somehow we find the funding to install a whole house humidifier before then. Until, I've taken steps to prepare my work area and need to allow the materials to re-acclimate to 35%-55% relative humidity inside the case.
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  #378  
Old 05-07-2018, 12:06 PM
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Damn weather. I'm finally picking this back up this week. I want to have the box closed and binding put on before my trip to visit my friend the luthier at the end of June. I also want to start "jigging up" for my next build, which is not going to be as complicated as this one has been.
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  #379  
Old 08-07-2018, 02:24 PM
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I'm getting close to "closing the box" but have to get the angles and geometry right so that the thing will be playable. That radius I put in the rims isn't ideal for where the fretboard sits and the bracing in that area is actually flat so I have to level it out with a slight ramp. That's to allow for the height of the strings over the fretboard and the height of the bridge that will go on last.

For now, I need to find a way to clamp it all together and do "dry" fits. To do that, I needed to tweak the design on my go bar deck:



The existing pipe sections were too short so I bought 3' long threaded rods. I kept the pipe for extra rigidity and to offer protection from stuff rubbing against the threaded rods.



I also cut a section of bead board and screwed it to the underside of the roof of the deck. Then I went to Harbor Freight and got a couple sets of nylon wire running kits for $8 apiece (10 rods per kit) and trimmed them down to about 28". This is a cheaper alternative to a luthier supplier who charges $5 per nylon rod - a net savings of about $80. The beard board offers a means of locking the bar in so that it doesn't slip, because when they do it can be hazardous to your project - and your health!

PS: they also sell the go bar deck for $550. Mine cost well less than half that.

With that being said, I've still been using the top as a work surface for sanding. The increased height is actually easier on the back too! With a little trimming on the band saw I've been getting closer to getting everything to fit together the way it should.

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Last edited by Kwak; 08-07-2018 at 02:48 PM.
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  #380  
Old 08-27-2018, 04:58 PM
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In doing the dry fit, I realized that the way I had sanded a radius in the surface of the front side of the guitar would result in a neck angle that would ultimately make the guitar unplayable. It needs to be both flat but at an angle so that there's a straight line along the length of the fretboard from the nut/headstock to a point where it's level with the top of the bridge. That way, the strings maintain a consistent level above the fretboard and thus require less effort to push down on when fretting the instrument. Many new luthiers like me struggle with this because if done improperly there's a "hump" at where the neck meets the body at the 14th fret and the string will either buzz along the entire length of the neck. OTOH if the angle is too low the strings will be way too high and bring the risk of carpeltunel syndrome to the player.

In addition to that, though the lower bout still requires a slight dome shape in order to increase the tone of the instrument the upper bout needs to be overbuilt in such a way that 300+ pounds of string tension don't pull the neck forward and cause the fretboard to dig into the soundboard, like what happened an old Yamaha string that my mother gifted me with several years ago.

So what I did was to make a jig with a sanding board that is basically the same angle that the top needs to be in that area. Sanding is a pain though, so I've been using a block plane to take off more than I probably should. That might be a simple fix for another day though.
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